May is Mental Health Awareness Month, and I wanted to make something that would help relieve stress and anxiety. According to the National Alliance on Mental Illness, 1 in 5 U.S. adults experience mental illnesses every year. Because of this, it’s important to bring awareness to this issue and support those that live with mental health disorders.
Two common mental health disorders are Bipolar Disorder and Schizophrenia, but they are not the only ones. Many experience severe anxiety and depression because of disorders like Generalized Anxiety Disorder (GAD), Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder (OCD), Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD), and Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD). Many of these disorders can make you feel jittery, so fidget toys are often needed to work out excess energy.
However, many fidget toys are large, loud, and brightly-colored, making them distracting in classroom and work settings. Today’s fidget toy pattern is small and quiet, and you can make it with whatever color you want. My hope is that these fidget toys can help you or your loved one manage your mental health better.
Never forget that you are strong and brave, even when you’re exhausted and discouraged. If no one’s ever told you this, I’m so proud of you. I’m proud of you for trying new treatments, for going to therapy, for continuing to fight, even when things seem exhausting and hopeless. Things will turn around, and you’re going to live life the way you want to.
This pattern is also available ad-free on Ribblr! To buy yours, click here.
If you’re unable to purchase the pattern, there are many other way free ways to support my work:
Sign up for my email list.
Follow me on Instagram.
Share a blog post with a fellow crocheter.
If you make one of my designs, take a picture and tag me on Instagram.
When you’re done, make sure take a picture and tag me on Instagram! Feel free to comment below or email me if you have any questions.
Fidget Toy Pattern
Materials:
Worsted Weight (#4) yarn (any color)
Size D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Abbreviations:
FO: Fasten Off
MR: Magic Ring
ch: Chain
hdc: half double crochet
inc: increase
rnd: round
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
sts: stitches
After each round, there will be a number in parentheses. This will tell you how many stitches you should have at the end of each round. Please double check your stitches in between rounds. If you have the wrong number of stitches, it will mess up the final product.
The circle is worked in rounds, and the spiral is worked in rows. Unless otherwise told, do not chain one or turn between round.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each st (12)
Rnd 3: (SC, inc) 6 times (18)
After finishing the circle, do not cut yarn. Instead, immediately ch 34 sts.
Remove stitch marker.
Rnd 4: In third ch from hook, 3 HDC. 3 HDC in each of the remaining 32 sts (99)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Sew the edge of the spiral to the edge of the circle. Weave in yarn ends.
Out of all of the animals in the world, my favorite would have to be a Panda. They’re so soft and cuddly, and the babies are adorable! I’ve only ever seen them in zoos, and it’s astounding how much bamboo they can eat.
Surprisingly, I have not seen very many crochet pandas on social media. Lately, it seems like cows, axolotls, and bees. That’s probably why I’ve seen so many cow plushies and axolotl squishmallows.
But I digress. I think Pandas could easily be one of the next crochet trends. Just like cows, pandas are very customizable. You could use regular acrylic yarn, blanket yarn, or whatever yarn you have. You could also make it any size, color, or theme you want. Maybe even a strawberry-themed one! What do you think? If you want me to make a pattern for a strawberry Panda, leave me a comment down below.
This pattern is also available ad-free on Ribblr! To buy yours, click here.
If you’re unable to purchase the pattern, there are many other way free ways to support my work:
Sign up for my email list.
Follow me on Instagram.
Share a blog post with a fellow crocheter.
If you make one of my designs, take a picture and tag me on Instagram.
Now for today’s pattern, my Panda Amigurumi!
Just like the rest of my patterns, my Panda Amigurumi is a small, quick project. It uses basic crochet stitches (like the Magic Ring and Single Crochet), but this pattern also involves color changes to make the striped body. If you’re unfamiliar with this technique, I highly recommend practicing before you start this project. Once you’ve familiarized yourself with how to do it, the process of creating your Panda will be a lot more enjoyable.
When you’re done, make sure take a picture and tag me on Instagram! Feel free to comment below or email me if you have any questions.
Panda Amigurumi
Size: approximately 5.5 inches long X 3.5 inches wide at the widest points
Gauge: Not important for this project
Materials:
Size D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook
Worsted weight (#4) yarn in black and white
8 mm safety eyes
Safety nose (in desired size)
Locking stitch markers
Fiberfill stuffing
Plastic tapestry needle
Sewing pins
Abbreviations:
MR: magic ring
Ch: chain stitch
St: stitch
SC: single crochet
FO: fasten off
Inc: single crochet increase
Dec: single crochet decrease
Rnd: round
Rw: row
Skills needed to complete the pattern:
How to complete the magic ring
How to single crochet
How to crochet in rounds
How to change colors
How to complete a single crochet increase
How to complete a single crochet decrease
How to finish off
How to use safety eyes
How to embroider facial features/decorations
How to use stitch markers
Note: After each round, there will be a number in parentheses. This will tell you how many stitches you should have at the end of each round. Please double check your stitches in between rounds. If you have the wrong number of stitches, it will mess up the final product.
The panda is worked in rounds. Do not chain one or turn between rounds.
This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.
Body (make 1)
With white yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: 2 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: 3 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 6-10: SC all around (30)
Change to black yarn:
Rnd 11-15: SC all around. If desired, place locking stitch markers between rnds 4-5 and 10-11. This will make it easier to add the limbs. (30)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Stuff the body, but do not sew it shut. When you’re done, the body should look like this:
Set aside.
Eye Spots (make 2)
With black yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside. When you’re done, the eye spots should look like this:
Head (make 1)
With white yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: 2 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: 3 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 6: 4 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (36)
Rnd 7-15: SC all around (36)
Add eye spots between rnds 8-13 with 3-4 sts between the eyes. Fasten the safety eyes in the center of each eye, through the eyespot and head. Sew the spots into place, secure with knots, and tuck yarn tails into project. At this point, the head should look like this:
Rnd 16: 4 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 17: 3 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (24)
Start stuffing the head, and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 18: 2 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times. If desired, place a locking stitch marker between rnds 17 and 18. This will make it easier to attach the head to the body (18)
Rnd 19: SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (12)
Rnd 20: dec all around (6)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, sew hole shut. When you’re done, the head should look like this:
Muzzle (make 1)
With white yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4-5: SC all around (18)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Attach safety nose to the center of the muzzle. Lightly stuff the muzzle. Set aside. When you’re done, the muzzle should look like this:
Set aside.
Ears (make 2)
With black yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4-6: SC all around (18)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. When you’re done, the ears should look like this:
Set aside.
Limbs (make 4)
With black yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3-6: SC all around (12)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside. Lightly stuff the limbs, but do not sew them shut. When you’re done, the limbs should look like this:
Set aside.
Limbs (make 4)
With black yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3-6: SC all around (12)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside. Lightly stuff the limbs, but do not sew them shut. When you’re done, the limbs should look like this:
Set aside.
Limbs (make 4)
With black yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3-6: SC all around (12)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside. Lightly stuff the limbs, but do not sew them shut. When you’re done, the limbs should look like this:
Set aside.
Tail (make 1)
With black yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3-4: SC all around (12)
Rnd 5: dec all around. Lightly stuff it as you go (6)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside. When you’re done, the tail should look like this:
Sewing instructions:
Pin the muzzle between rnds 9 and 16. The muzzle should rest between the eyes.
2. Using the longer tail, sew the muzzle to the head. Secure with a knot, remove the pins, tuck yarn tails into project, and trim off any excess yarn
3. Pin the ears on the head in the desired position.
4. Sew the ears on top of the head. When you’re done, secure with knots, remove pins, tuck yarn tails into project, and trim off any excess yarn. Shape the ears with your fingers.
5. Pin the head directly below the body, between rnds 17 and 18
6. Sew into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, remove pins, tuck yarn tail into project, and trim off any excess yarn.
7. Pin the limbs between rnds 4-8 and 10-15, with about 7-8 sts between the limbs.
8. Sew the limbs into place. When you’re done, secure with knots, remove the pins, tuck yarn tails into project, and trim off any excess yarn.
9. Turn the panda face down. Pin the tail between rnds 4-7, three rnds below the black stripe on the body. Make sure the tail is in the center.
10. Sew the tail into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, remove the pins, tuck yarn tail into project, and trim off any excess yarn.
Ready for an easy, beginner-friendly crochet pattern? Well, you’re in luck! Today, we’re going to make a Bumblebee, and it’s incredibly easy and beginner-friendly. It uses simple stitches (such as a Magic Circle/Magic Ring and Single Crochet), and there’s minimal shaping involved. Essentially, it’s a crocheted tube with a couple of wings sewn on afterwards. Because it’s so small, it makes a great last-minute gift and an excellent stash-buster. You can even customize it with any colors you want! Wouldn’t it be cute to make these in your school colors? Or in holiday colors, like black and orange or green and red? The possibilities are endless! Let me know what colors/theme you’re going to use for your bumblebee in the comments below.
Bumblebees have been super popular on social media lately, so I wanted to design one myself. I’ve seen bumblebees in every size, shape, color, and yarn type, but I wanted to make a small, traditional bee. With small crochet projects, it’s easier to see your progress, even if you’re only crocheting for 15-20 minutes at a time. That’s going to boost your confidence and help you keep going on your crochet journey.
This pattern is also available ad-free on Ribblr! To buy yours, click here.
If you’re unable to purchase the pattern, there are many other way free ways to support my work:
Sign up for my email list.
Follow me on Instagram.
Share a blog post with a fellow crocheter.
If you make one of my designs, take a picture and tag me on Instagram.
Now for today’s pattern, my Bumblebee Amigurumi!
I don’t know about you, but I’m scared of bees. I’ve never gotten stung before, and I’m not allergic to Bee stings, but I’m always afraid of the possibility. If you’re afraid of bumblebees like me, then this pattern will allow you to enjoy their cuteness, minus the risk of stings.
When you’re done, make sure take a picture and tag me on Instagram! Feel free to comment below or email me if you have any questions.
Bumblebee Amigurumi
Size: Approximately 3 inches long X 2 inches wide at the widest points
Gauge: Not important for this project
Materials:
Size D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook
Worsted weight (#4) yarn in yellow, white, and black.
9 mm safety eyes
Locking stitch markers
Fiberfill stuffing
Plastic tapestry needle
Abbreviations:
MR: magic ring
Ch: chain stitch
St: stitch
SC: single crochet
DC: double crochet
FO: fasten off
Inc: single crochet increase
Dec: single crochet decrease
Rnd: round
Rw: row
Skills needed to complete the pattern:
How to complete the magic ring
How to single crochet
How to double crochet
How to crochet in rounds
How to change colors
How to complete a single crochet increase
How to complete a single crochet decrease
How to finish off
How to use safety eyes
How to embroider facial features
How to use stitch markers
Note: After each round, there will be a number in parentheses. This will tell you how many stitches you should have at the end of each round. Please double check your stitches in between rounds. If you have the wrong number of stitches, it will mess up the final product.
The Bumblebee is worked in rounds. Do not chain one or turn between rounds.
Bumblebee body (make 1)
With yellow yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each st. Repeat 6 times (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: 2 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: 3 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (30)
Place safety eyes between rnds 3 and 4 with 4 sts between the eyes. Embroider on a mouth using black yarn.
Rnd 6-8: SC all around (30)
Change to black yarn.
Rnd 9-10: SC all around (30)
Change to yellow yarn.
Rnd 11-12: SC all around (30)
Change to black yarn.
Rnd 13-14: SC all around (30)
Change to yellow yarn.
Rnd 15-16: SC all around (30)
Change to black yarn.
Rnd 17-18: SC all around (30)
Rnd 19: 3 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (24)
Start stuffing the bee and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 20: 2 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 21: SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (12)
Rnd 22: dec all around (6)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Sew the hole shut. Tuck in yarn end and trim off any excess. Set aside.
Wings (make 2)
With white yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 DC (6)
Close the MR. Sl st into the center of the MR. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside.
When you’re done with the wings, they should look like this:
Sew the wings on the top of the bee between rnds 9-12 with 5-6 sts between the wings. Secure with a knot, and tuck in yarn tails. When you’re done, the top of the bee should look like this:
Looking for a beginner-friendly crochet frog pattern? Look no further than today’s post! Like cows, frogs have been super popular in the crochet world due to their versatility and simple design. On social media, crocheters have made frogs of all kinds; some are pocket-sized, and some are gigantic plushies. Some have short legs, others have long legs. Personally, I’ve seen crochet frogs in every color and variation.
Even with all of this inspiration, many of us have wanted to know how to crochet a frog. With today’s free crochet frog pattern, you’ll be able to make a cute, pocket-sized friend to accompany you on all of your adventures. You can even customize it by changing the colors, making the legs longer, or making clothes for it! Let me know your customization ideas in the comments below.
This pattern is also available ad-free on Ribblr! To buy yours, click here.
If you’re unable to purchase the pattern, there are many other way free ways to support my work:
If you make one of my designs, take a picture and tag me on Instagram.
Now for today’s pattern, my Frog Amigurumi!
Despite their appearances in pop culture (i.e. The Princess and the Frog and Kermit the Frog), some people aren’t a fan of frogs. Some people get creeped out by them, and others don’t like their slimy texture. But with today’s pattern, it’ll be easier to see their cute, cuddly side.
This pattern is perfect for beginners, since there are few pieces involved, it only uses beginner stitches, and there’s minimal sewing involved. Once you learn the pattern, it would be fun to make a bunch to give as party favors for a “Princess and the Frog” themed birthday party.
When you’re done, make sure take a picture and tag me on Instagram! Feel free to comment below or email me if you have any questions.
Frog Amigurumi
Size: 5.5 inches tall X 3.5 inches wide at the widest points
Gauge: Not important for this project
Materials:
Size D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook
Worsted weight (#4) yarn in green and black
8 mm safety eyes
Locking stitch markers
Fiberfill stuffing
Tapestry needle
Sewing pins
Abbreviations:
MR: magic ring
Ch: chain stitch
St: stitch
sl st: Slip stitch
SC: single crochet
FO: fasten off
Inc: single crochet increase
Dec: single crochet decrease
Rnd: round
Rw: row
Skills needed to complete the pattern:
How to complete the magic ring
How to single crochet
How to crochet in rounds
How to complete a single crochet increase
How to complete a single crochet decrease
How to finish off
How to use safety eyes
How to embroider facial features/decorations
How to use stitch markers
Note: After each round, there will be a number in parentheses. This will tell you how many stitches you should have at the end of each round. Please double check your stitches in between rounds. If you have the wrong number of stitches, it will mess up the final product.
The frog is worked in rounds. Do not chain one or turn between rounds.
This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.
Frog Eyes (Make 2)
With green yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 5 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (5)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each st (10)
Rnd 3-5: SC all around (10)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Place safety eye between rnds 3 and 4. Lightly stuff and set aside.
Head (Make 1)
With green yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch market (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each st (12)
Rnd 3: (SC, inc) 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: (2 SC, inc) 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: (3 SC, inc) 6 times (30)
Rnd 6: (4 SC, inc) 6 times (36)
Rnd 7-15: SC all around (36)
Embroider on a mouth with black yarn between rnds 11 and 12. The mouth should be about 3 sts wide.
Rnd 16: (4 SC, dec) 6 times (30)
Rnd 17: (3 SC, dec) 6 times (24)
Start stuffing the head, and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 18: (2 SC, dec) 6 times (18)
Rnd 19: (SC, dec) 6 times (12)
Rnd 20: dec all around (6)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, sew the head shut. Tuck yarn tail into project and trim off any excess. Set aside.
Body (Make 1)
With green yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each st (12)
Rnd 3: (SC, inc) 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: (2 SC, inc) 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: (3 SC, inc) 6 times (30)
Rnd 6-15: SC all around (30)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside. Stuff the body, but do not sew it shut.
Limbs (Make 4)
With green yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch market (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each st (12)
Rnd 3-6: SC all around (12)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Lightly stuff the limbs, but do not sew them shut.
Sewing Instructions:
Step 1:
Pin the eyes to the top of the head between rnds 2-5. Rnd 1 should be between the eyes.
Step 2:
Sew the eyes into place. When you’re done, secure with knots, tuck yarn tails into project, remove the pins, and trim off any excess.
Step 3:
Pin the head directly on top of the body.
Step 4:
Sew the head into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tail into project, remove the pins, and trim off any excess.
Step 5:
Pin the arms between rnds 11-15, with 7-8 sts between the arms. Pin the legs directly below the arms with a rnd between the legs.
Step 6:
Sew the limbs in place. When you’re done, remove pins, secure with knots, tuck yarn tails into project, and trim off any excess.
Cows have been having a moment in the spotlight lately. It seems like every toy has released a cow version, and social media is awash with videos and images of them. There’s such an abundance of cow-themed toys that many kids choose between a cow squishmallow and cow-themed slime as their toy of choice.
Cows have also been super popular in the crochet world in the past few years, and it’s not hard to see why. They’re so versatile! Whether you want a tiny baby cow, a giant cow plushie, or even a strawberry cow, the options are limited only by your imagination. I even saw a picture of a fluffy cow made with fake fur yarn!
If you’re late to the cow craze, look no further than my Cow Amigurumi Pattern in today’s post. This free cow crochet pattern is so easy to make, and in the end, you will have a pocket-sized friend to accompany you on all of your adventures!
I’m planning on releasing a strawberry cow pattern and (possibly) other cow variations later on. If you have any ideas for creative cow patterns, let me know in the comments below.
This pattern is also available ad-free on Ribblr! To buy yours, click here.
If you’re unable to purchase the pattern, there are many other way free ways to support my work:
If you make one of my designs, take a picture and tag me on Instagram.
Now for today’s pattern, my Cow Amigurumi!
Cows are arguable one of the most beloved animals due to their sweet nature. Whether you live in a bustling city or deep in the country, you’ll enjoy making this pattern. I know I did! I originally designed it in 2021 after seeing an influx of cute cow creations on social media. I wanted to make sure my pattern was as easy as possible so all crafters could join in on the cow craze.
When you’re done, make sure take a picture and tag me on Instagram! Feel free to comment below or email me if you have any questions.
Cow Amigurumi
Size: 6 inches long X 4 inches wide at the widest points
Gauge: Not important for this project
Materials:
Size D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook
Worsted weight (#4) yarn in white, black, beige, pink, and light brown
8 mm safety eyes
Locking stitch markers
Fiberfill stuffing
Tapestry needle
Sewing pins
Abbreviations:
MR: magic ring
Ch: chain stitch
St: stitch
SC: single crochet
FO: fasten off
Inc: single crochet increase
Dec: single crochet decrease
Rnd: round
Rw: row
Skills needed to complete the pattern:
How to complete the magic ring
How to single crochet
How to crochet in rounds
How to change colors
How to complete a single crochet increase
How to complete a single crochet decrease
How to finish off
How to use safety eyes
How to use stitch markers
Note: After each round, there will be a number in parentheses. This will tell you how many stitches you should have at the end of each round. Please double check your stitches in between rounds. If you have the wrong number of stitches, it will mess up the final product.
The cow is worked in rounds. Do not chain one or turn between rounds.
This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.
Head (make 1)
With white yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: 2 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: 3 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 6: 4 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (36)
Rnd 7-15: SC all around. If desired, add a locking stitch marker between rnds 10 and 11. This will make it easier to add the safety eyes (36)
Add safety eyes between rnds 10 and 11 with 5-6 sts between the eyes.
Rnd 16: 4 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 17: 3 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (24)
Start stuffing the head, and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 18: 2 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 19: SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (12)
Rnd 20: dec all around (6)
Body (make 1)
With white yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: 2 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: 3 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 6-15: SC all around (30)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside. Stuff the body, but do not sew it shut. When you’re done, the body should look like this:
Muzzle (make 1)
With pink yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: 5 SC, inc. Repeat twice (14)
Rnd 4: SC all around (14)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Embroider two parallel lines an equal distance apart using black yarn. Lightly stuff the muzzle, but do not sew it shut. Set aside. When you’re done, the muzzle should look like this:
Horns (make 2)
With beige yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC, inc. Repeat twice (8)
Rnd 3: 3 SC, inc. Repeat twice (10)
Rnd 4-5: SC all around (10)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Lightly stuff the horns, but do not sew them shut. Set aside. When you’re done, the horns should look like this:
Limbs (make 4)
With light brown yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC all around (12)
Change to white yarn
4-6: SC all around (12)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Lightly stuff the limbs, but do not sew them shut. When you’re done, the limbs should look like this:
Ears (Make 2)
With black yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: 5 SC, inc. Repeat 2 times (14)
Rnd 4-8: SC all around (14)
Sl st, cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and FO. Do not stuff the ear. Pinch the sides of the ear, fold in half, and sew into position. When you’re done, the ears should look like this:
Note: The ears are made with black yarn, but gray yarn is used in the example to make it easier to see.
Tail (Make 1)
With black yarn
Starting at the tip of the tail:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2-3: SC all around (6)
Change to white yarn:
Rnd 4-8: SC all around (6)
Sl st, cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and FO. Do not stuff the tail. Pinch the sides of the tail together and sew shut. Set aside. When you’re done, the tail should look like this:
Small Spots (Make 2)
With black yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC, inc. Repeat twice (8)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside. When you’re done, the spots should look like this:
Note: The spots are made with black yarn, but gray yarn is used in the example to make it easier to see.
Big Spots (Make 3)
With black yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, set aside. When you’re done, the spots should look like this:
Note: The spots are made with black yarn, but gray yarn is used in the example to make it easier to see.
Sewing instructions:
Step 1:
Pin the muzzle in the center of the head, below the eyes.
Step 2:
Sew into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tail into project, remove the pins, and trim off any excess.
Step 3:
Pin the horns on top of the head between rnds 2-6 with rnds 1-2 between the horns.
Step 4:
Sew into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tails into project, remove the pins, and trim off any excess.
Step 5:
Pin the ears between rnds 11-12, directly below the horns.
Step 6:
Sew into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tails into project, remove the pins, and trim off any excess.
Step 7
Pin the head directly on top of the body.
Step 8:
Sew the head to the body. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tail into project, and cut off any excess.
Step 9:
Pin the arms between rnds 10-15 with 6 sts between the arms. When you’re done, sew the arms to the body. Secure with a knot, tuck yarn tail into project, and cut off any excess.
Step 10:
Pin the legs directly below the arms with one rnd between the arms and legs. When you’re done, sew the legs to the body. Secure with a knot, tuck yarn tail into project, and cut off any excess.
Step 11:
Turn the cow face down. Pin the tail in the center of the back between rnds 5-7.
Step 12:
Sew the tail to the body. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tail into project, and cut off any excess.
Step 13:
Turn the cow face up. Pin the small spots on the stomach, according to the picture.
Step 14:
Sew into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tails into project, remove the pins, and trim off any excess.
Step 15:
Turn the cow face down. Pin the big spots on the back, according to the picture.
Step 16:
Sew into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tails into project, remove the pins, and trim off any excess.
Finding free amigurumi patterns can be tough. Most free patterns are full of mistakes, and the high-quality ones are often expensive. And even if you find a pattern that doesn’t have mistakes, it can often be poorly written and difficult to understand.
I remember what it was like as a new crocheter. The internet has a bunch of tutorials and patterns to sift through, many of which only made me more confused. Afterwards, I would walk away with the same questions I had when I started, and I would continue to search for things like “what is amigurumi” and “amigurumi how to.”
Starting today, my goal is to make things easier for myself and fellow crocheters. At Crochet By Margaret, my goal is to provide high quality crochet patterns that are accessible for everyone. Twice a month, I will provide a blog post with a free amigurumi pattern (with ads). If you would like to help support me, many of my patterns can be found exclusively on Ribblr.
A Bit About Me
My name is Margaret, and I began to crochet in early 2020 as the world shut down due to the Covid-19 pandemic. At the time, I was a full-time college student with a busy social life. Because of how quickly the virus spread, all of that came to an end. With hours of free time to fill and nowhere to go, I picked up a crochet hook and started making amigurumis.
From there, I was “hooked.”
Crocheting was one of the main reasons I maintained my mental health during the pandemic. It distracted me from the state of the world, and it helped me to discover an online community of crafters who lift each other up. It gave me a sense of purpose, belonging, and peace.
That’s my ultimate goal for this blog: to ensure that crocheters can have an enjoyable crafting experience, regardless of their finances.
If you’re unable to purchase a pattern, there are many other way free ways to support my work:
Mice often have a bad reputation for being creepy, so I wanted to make a cute one. It involves minimal shaping and basic stitches, making it the ideal project for beginners. When you’re done, make sure to take a picture and tag me on Instagram! Feel free to comment below or email me if you have any questions.
Mouse Amigurumi
Size: approximately 5.5 inches long X 4.5 inches wide at the widest points
Gauge: Not important for this project
Materials:
Size D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook
Worsted weight (#4) yarn in pink and gray
8 mm safety eyes
Safety nose
Locking stitch markers
Fiberfill stuffing
Plastic tapestry needle
Sewing pins
Abbreviations:
MR: magic ring
Ch: chain stitch
St: stitch
SC: single crochet
FO: fasten off
Inc: single crochet increase
Dec: single crochet decrease
Rnd: round
Rw: row
Skills needed to complete the pattern:
How to complete the magic ring
How to single crochet
How to crochet in rounds
How to complete a single crochet increase
How to complete a single crochet decrease
How to finish off
How to use safety eyes
How to sew crocheted pieces together
How to use stitch markers
Note: After each round, there will be a number in parentheses. This will tell you how many stitches you should have at the end of each round. Please double check your stitches in between rounds. If you have the wrong number of stitches, it will mess up the final product.
The mouse is worked in rounds. Do not chain one or turn between rounds.
This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.
Body (make 1)
With gray yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: 2 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: 3 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 6-15: SC all around. If desired, place locking stitch markers between rnds 4-5 and 10-11. This will make it easier to add the limbs. (30)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Stuff the body, but do not sew it shut. When you’re done, the body should look like this:
Set aside.
Head (make 1)
With gray yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4: 2 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (24)
Rnd 5: 3 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times(30)
Rnd 6: 4 SC, inc. Repeat 6 times(36)
Rnd 7-15: SC all around. If desired, add a locking stitch marker between rnds 10 and 11. This will make it easier to add the safety eyes (36)
Add safety eyes between rnds 10 and 11 with 5-6 sts between the eyes.
Rnd 16: 4 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (30)
Rnd 17: 3 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (24)
Start stuffing the head, and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 18: 2 SC, dec. Repeat 6 times. If desired, place a locking stitch marker between rnds 17 and 18. This will make it easier to attach the head to the body (18)
Rnd 19: SC, dec. Repeat 6 times (12)
Rnd 20: dec all around (6)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, sew hole shut. When you’re done, the head should look like this:
Set aside.
Muzzle(make 1)
With gray yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC, inc. Repeat 2 times (8)
Rnd 3: 3 SC, inc. Repeat 2 times (10)
Rnd 4: 4 SC, inc. Repeat 2 times (12)
Rnd 5: 5 SC, inc. Repeat 2 times (14)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Place a safety nose in the center of the muzzle, at the center point. Lightly stuff, set aside. When you’re done, the nose should look like this:
Ears (make 2)
With pink yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3: SC, inc. Repeat 6 times (18)
Rnd 4-8: SC all around (18)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO, do not stuff. When you’re done, the ears should look like this:
Set aside.
Limbs (make 4)
With gray yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each ch (12)
Rnd 3-6: SC all around (12)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Lightly stuff the limbs, but do not sew them shut. When you’re done, the limbs should look like this:
Set aside.
Tail (Make 1)
With pink yarn:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 SC. Mark the beginning of the rnd with a locking stitch marker (6)
Rnd 2-20: SC all around (6)
Sl st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. FO. Do not stuff. When you’re done, the tail should look like this:
Set aside.
Sewing instructions:
Step 1:
Pin the muzzle in the center of the head, below the eyes.
Step 2:
Sew into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tail into project, remove the pins, and trim off any excess.
Step 3:
Pin the ears into desired position on the top of the head.
Step 4:
Sew the ears into place. When you’re done, secure with knots, tuck yarn tails into project, remove the pins, and trim off any excess. At this point, the head should look like this:
Step 5:
Pin the head directly on top of the body.
Step 6:
Sew the head to the body. When you’re done, secure with a knot, tuck yarn tail into project, and cut off any excess.
Step 7:
Pin the arms between rnds 11-15, with 5-6 sts between the arms. Pin the legs directly below the arms with a rnd between the legs.
Step 8:
Sew the limbs in place. When you’re done, remove pins, secure with knots, tuck yarn tails into project, and trim off any excess.
Step 9:
Flip the mouse over so that it’s face down. Pin the tail on the center of the lower back, in the desired position.
Step 10:
Sew the tail into place. When you’re done, secure with a knot, remove the pins, and tuck yarn tail into project. Trim off any excess yarn.
Crochet By Margaret 